What if I told you to throw all the rules you learned about frame styling several years ago out the window? The stagnant rules we all learned about face shape and frames styles are just too limited and not helpful enough today. Have you noticed the majority of face shapes are combinations of shapes and don't fit neatly into the categories of simply square, round, oval or heart shape. Have you noticed the rule about where the frame should be in relation to the eyebrow is no longer relevant?
The rules of frame styling are in need of a facelift.
These “rules” remind me of the out dated rules for matching food and wine. We were told white wine was to be served with fowl or fish and red wine for beef or red meats. However about a decade ago the famous chef and international food and wine consultant, John Ash, told us in his class "The Marriage of Food and Wine" that those rules were no longer relevant either. His message to us was what we like is what we like and that is only what is important. He then educated us by showing us how different foods pair very well with other flavors. For example salmon is wonderful with a pinot noir as well as a rich chardonnay.
Recently I was helping a friend look for new frames and we were in a rush. I quickly began with the question, “What image would you like to project?” She was startled by my question, though it was completely relevant in my mind. I may have popped the question on her more quickly than I would someone I didn’t know as well. However I know she routinely fills several roles: founder and president of a marketing communications company, speechwriter, writer, advisory board member, mother and wife.
She may have wanted a different look or frame for when she was meeting with clients versus what she might wear in her office writing and meeting with creative suppliers or attending a school function or social engagement with her husband and son. Or she might want one frame to span each of these roles. She could definitely use several frame and lens configurations based on her everyday activities.
Questions I ask myself
In our roles as opticians we wear many hats that require very different knowledge and expertise. First and foremost is basic optical lens knowledge. Close behind is product knowledge, which requires frequent updates to be current on the newest lenses, coatings, treatments and frame products available. Keeping current in all these areas is a responsibility of our profession. Some very interesting new lenses, designs, materials, coatings and measuring systems have been made available to us lately. Don’t get stuck in a rut and keep using only the same products without trying new things. If you do, you are not doing your best for your patients.
I think about how I present myself in the office with patients. I ask myself several questions: Are my hands clean and nicely manicured? I am certain I don’t have coffee, garlic or other unpleasant breath. Do I look professional but with a fashion twist? Do I have a warm and approachable manner? Do I look and sound like someone I would make a $1,000 or more purchase from?
The Optician’s Goal
Your challenge is clear. Assist your patient in finding a frame and lens combination that corrects their vision and assists them with their visual needs and requirements. In other words, we want our patients to have the clearest and best vision and protection in all the different ways they use their eyes in their daily lives.
Eyewear selection always begins by reviewing the patient’s prescription followed by a gentle request for information from the patient on what they liked or didn’t like about their previous eyewear. The responses may be related to the look of the frame or the functionality of the eyewear. Did they have to raise or lower their head to see clearly? These are all clues to the style of lens and frame to show and recommend.
Patient Scan
As soon as I begin working with a patient I begin “scanning” to try and understand what their personal style is and what type of eyewear they will want. This includes more than what they are wearing or how they look at the moment. I notice as much as I can about the patient: their shoes, purse, jewelry and anything else I can. If they are wearing glasses I always ask if their current eyewear is comfortable. I also ask them if they are interested in something similar or if they want something new and different.
Color
More than a few years ago there was a color analysis program that considered the facial and hair coloration of a person and attributed them into categories or warm (Summer and Fall) colors or cool (Winter and Spring) colors. People often have a general idea what colors they are interested in and that should lead you to many of the frames selections you make for your patient. However, you should make your own assessment whether they would look good in a warm or cool color and show them a frame that you know will look good on them based on their skin tones. Help patients break out of the “I want a frame to go with everything” syndrome. I’ve found that navy and charcoal are very neutral colors as well as brown and black. And there is nothing more fun than a pop of color on the face.
Optician, Frame Stylist or Image Consultant?
Always point out the temple colors and design to a patient. I find patients often overlook the temples when trying on a frame and when you point out the fancy filigree or medallion or brand name of the designer on the temple they have a strong reaction of aversion or ambivalence. Temple colors, patterns and trims can compete with jewelry and clothing.
You Can’t Judge a Book by the Cover
As the old Blues song by Bo Diddley in 1962 tells us, you can’t judge a book by its cover.
I’ve learned that patients have many sides and they may be coming to their appointment or eye exam following the gym or workout or after a day in the office. In other words, you can’t tell what a person’s life or role is by what they may be wearing when you meet them. This may seem to counter my patient scan recommendation; however, my own bottom line rule is never to assume a patient is looking for an inexpensive frame or only one pair of eyewear or not. I have discovered that most often when they fall in love with a frame they are willing to spend more than they originally planned.
Lens Rx Followed Quickly by Frame Fit and Size
Begin by looking at the patient’s prescription. Of course we must know what kind of lenses we are going to be dealing with before making any kind of frame recommendation. High minus or plus, high astigmatism, prism, progressives, single vision?
Quickly move to putting a few frames on the patients face to determine the fit. I believe good bridge fit is crucial to a patient’s happiness in their eyewear. By taking control of the frame selection I’m able to select a few frames to test for bridge fit and shape first before allowing the patient to see the frame unless it fits well. After the fit is determined I select four or five frames considering what style is close to what they want or I see looking great on them and fitting very well.
Most often we quickly narrow the frames to three or four. At this point I share the price with the patient so they can eliminate frames based on cost if they wish to. Ideally there is a spread of frame costs. I never assume nor even think much about frame cost before this point unless the patient has told me they are on a budget. I look for fit, appropriateness of frame for their lenses and what style matches them best.
Tone and Manner
Several years ago I learned from a psychology professor of mine that you can say nearly anything to a person if you used the right tone and manner. Tone and manner encompasses the words you say, your tone of voice, the look on your face, your body language, etc. Today’s patients are also informed consumers and can be very suspicious that we are simply trying to “sell them” a pair of eyewear. You are in control of that perception. Present yourself as the professional you are in the tone and manner in which you communicate. Think of projecting confidence, knowledge and being non-judgmental. Being professional does not mean using lots of jargon and fancy words, it means straight, succinct communication the patient can understand.
Most people have been on a budget from time to time and don’t want to spend as much on eyewear. Help those folks make the best choices without breaking the bank. They will remember you and come back.
One More for Fun
Almost always I show a frame that isn’t at all what the patient would expect. It is often something very different, stylish and more dramatic than what the patient is considering. I preface showing them the frame by saying – now I’m going to show you something totally different. Sometimes the patient starts down a different and totally fun path of selecting frames. If not, you’ve helped them solidify what they like versus what they don’t. Either way, it’s a step forward in narrowing down a final frame selection.
Final Decision
My recommendation is to help a patient compare frames and narrow them down but try hard to let the patient make the final decision on their own. I help them compare frames by describing the different “looks” or fit and feel of one frame versus another – this one is “hip and current,” this one is very “cute,” this one is very “dramatic” or “more feminine” or “invisible or unobtrusive, making your eyes more obvious.” I often ask patients questions about when they wear their glasses the most or what their daily life is like and ask them to think about themselves in those situations when selecting their frame.
If a patient is still indecisive I often have them stand up from the dispensing table and go to a full length mirror and compare a couple of frames seeing themselves in a different way. If that doesn’t help this is a good time to bring in another person from our office someone else to offer his or her opinion. Often this is when patients will say, "Okay, I can’t decide. I will take them both."
Occasionally patients are hesitant and want their spouse or significant other to see them in their prospective new frames. In this case I offer to take a photo of them in their potential frames with their cell phones to send or text to their loved ones to help them decide. I often reassure patients that several frames will look good and there are no mistakes.
Recommendation
After the frame selection is made it is time to step up to my role as a professional Optician and to clearly communicate my recommendations for lens designs and lens options along with the benefits and reasons for each. I am confident and deliberate in saying the words “I recommend, based on your visual needs, the following lens with options and warranties, etc. . . . “
Optician, Image Consultant and Frame Stylist
It’s easier for me to help someone select their eyewear if they see me as all three things: optician, image consultant and frame stylist. That’s the best of all worlds and achieves the highest patient satisfaction and loyalty.
Mindi Lewis is the Managing Editor of the Optician’s Handbook. She is currently an Optician at MarinEyes, a multi doctor practice in San Rafael, California. Mindi has had held positions in marketing, training and sales at SOLA Optical/Carl Zeiss Vision and Vision Ease Lens. She is a graduate of and former Instructor at St Petersburg College, Optometric Technology program. She also has a Masters degree in Psychology and Organizational Development from Sonoma State University. Mindi has loved all things related to vision and optics for many years and lives in Petaluma, California with her husband Craig and wonderful doggie Max.
